Raiding some Temples

Day 31 (30/04/08): Ayutthaya, Thailand

Once more, a night of terrible sleep. Although this time it was due to a blocked nose, wracking cough, bad headache and even some backache. This flu has hit me pretty hard. I took some painkillers, which helped things out a fair bit. I even succumbed and ordered some comfort food - a hamburger (I have rarely eaten Western food while travelling). Although the burger wasn't actually very good. Refusing to let the flu get the better of me, it was now time to go an explore some of Ayutthaya!

We investigated some of the guided tours you could take, but decided they were all too expensive. After all, we had legs didn't we? So with me at the map, off we walked down the street to the Historical Park. Ayutthaya is famous for its large number of Wats, almost all of which are now ruins, due to the many wars between Thailand and Burma over the last few hundred years. First stop was Wat Ratchaburana, a particularly impressive ruin, focussed around a large 'Prang', which is richly decorated with stone statues and engravings. We braved the perilous steps and actually climbed right up it to get a great view of the surrounding area. Also scattered around are numerous Buddha statues, most of which are now headless, or otherwise similarly ruined. Some were mere blocks of stone, and only on close inspection could you see the odd bit of decoration that once marked it as a torso.

Across the road is the Historical park housing the ruins of Wat Phra Mahathat. While this complex is considerably larger than Wat Ratchaburana, most of the buildings are in much worse condition. Originally built in the 14th century, it was burned down a couple hundred years ago. It is mostly brick and mortar construction, and after several hundred years, some of the stupas are now on a bit of an angle (like Pisa, only less Italian). This Wat is also home to the famous 'Buddha head in tree roots' thing. It's quite pretty to look at it, but nothing incredibly special. The whole experience of clambering around these ruins, some of which are hundreds of years old, really make you feel like Indiana Jones, or Lara Croft.

The heat by now was stupefying (nothing new there). So after a cold drink, a tuktuk to the National Museum sounded like a good idea. It is impossible to walk anywhere in Thailand, especially as a Westerner, and not be constantly hounded by tuktuk drivers offering you a ride. Unless of course, you actually want a tuktuk, as was our case. We started walking in the right direction, and it was only after walking most of the way there, that we finally got the tuktuk proposition. By which time of course, we didn't actually need a ride. The museum was reasonably interesting. Housing a collection of personal items belonging to an old Thai King from 150 years ago. More impressive was the collection of old ceramics, statues, and other everyday items, some of which dated back to the 13th century!

Walked back into town, by now on very sore feet, and am writing this post immediately up (in a nice air-conditioned internet cafe). We have train tickets booked for tonight, to Chang Mai. Quite a long train journey, but having learned from past experience, we booked tickets early to ensure a nice comfortable second class sleeper berth. My flu is still pretty bad (although painkillers are currently disguising it), so I am considering taking a few days off in Chang Mai, and just holing up somewhere and resting. The rest of my plan for Chang Mai involves going trekking in the mountains for a few days, so its probably best done in good health.

On an interesting side note, the tuktuks here are unlike any other I have seen. More of a cross between a regular tuktuk and a songthaew, they are little three wheeled trucks with two bench seats in the back (see the photo). Ten points to anybody who can remember the video game that one of these appeared in.

Wats and Temples and a real big Buddha

Day 27 (26/04/08): Bangkok, Thailand

Today was spent doing some of the typical tourist stuff in Bangkok. A hardy breakfast of porridge and banana to make up for the previous nights beer, and we were off! Avoiding the waiting pack of tuktuk and taxi drivers, offering to take us places for 'cheap price', we walked for about 10 minutes down the street to the Grand Palace of the Thai King. This large complex houses the old palace of the King, as well as Wat Phra Kaew. Upon arriving, I was told I couldn't enter the complex, as my shorts (which ended just below my knee), were too short. This is after all, a place of Buddhist worship. However, for a small returnable deposit, I could have a pair of drawstring baggy trousers to wear. I joined the queue of all the other 'scantily clad' westerners, and a few minutes later, armed with my new ugly pants, I could go exploring!

The Buddhist temple of Wat Phra Kaew was first, and I must say it was very impressive (check out the link for more photos). It comprises of a number of large and small buildings, altars and statues. Some of the buildings are covered in amazing decoration; gold leaf, gold tiles, small mirrors etc. One very large building in particular was completely covered in a small repeating patterns of gold tiles, sculpted parts, mirrors and colourful tiles. The amount of work to construct such a place is utterly mind boggling. All around the place were large statues acting as guards or 'supporting' the building. These too were covered in detail work and small decoration that was almost unbelievable to comprehend. Some buildings were just completely covered in gold leaf. We walked around, necks craned, sweating in the Bangkok heat, and were amazed at the amount of work it would have taken to create this place. Several of the larger buildings housed Buddhist altars, and after removing your shoes, you could enter. While the western tourists just marvelled at the sheer magnificence of the statues and the altars, many of the locals would actively kneel and pray. It was a very interesting experience. There were also large undecorated stone statues (my personal favourite), exquisite little gardens with miniature trees, pagodas and large ceramic containers with water plants and amazing flowers.

Within the same complex was the Grand Palace of the Thai King. Built in a somewhat in an 'East meets West' way, ultimately it was just a very large stately building, that paled in comparison so the magnificence of the gold-leaf buildings we had just seen. Before leaving, we went into a small museum housing some of the Royal Thai regalia, jewellery, swords and other accoutrements that come with being Royal. I actually really enjoyed the museum, and liked looking at the amazing artifacts. Rome of the rings were so encrusted with jewels and raw diamonds, that the ring was the size of a golf ball. Some serious bling. And oh, the musem was also wonderfully air-conditioned, another reason it was great.

Walked down the road to Wat Pho, home of the world's largest reclining Buddah. There entrance fee was cheap, and really worth it. The buildings around the temple complex were not particularly impressive, especially after the sights of the morning. However, the giant Buddha, that was pretty impressive. At 46m long, and 15m high, completely covered in gold leaf, it is a very impressive sight. Other than that, there isn't really much to say about it. It's just a really really big statue, all covered in gold. I guess you have to be there to fully feel its impact.

The rain come down then, the way it does in these parts of the world, hot, heavy and solid. We had now been on our feet for most of the day, and combined with the rain, caught a taxi back to Khaosan road. The rest of the afternoon was spent relaxing, and I had the very good news that my car, back in NZ, had been sold! That adds a huge boost to my travelling fund, but if I am good I will leave it as my setup money for the UK, which I know is going to be very expensive.

The evening and night was spent with a few other friends, people I had met in Taman Negara, and Helen had met in KL. Sometimes travelling can be a very small world indeed. Although at one stage or another, all travellers go to Khaosan road, and I have already bumped into a few people I've met in other places. Small world indeed....