We continued cycling down to a small 'beach', a little bit of sand next to a small inlet off the river. There were a few warning signs up saying that it was very dangerous to swim there if you went to close to the river itself. The current is phenomenally strong, and their was a small memorial to a backpacker who died there a few years ago.
Saturday, June 14, 2008
Relaxing in the Isles
Day 71 - 73 (09/06/08 - 11/06/08): Don Det, Laos
I spent three wonderfully relaxing, beautiful and enjoyable days in Don Det. As I said before, Don Det is a little perfect slice of tranquility, a small island bounded by the mighty Mekong river on all sides, and home to nothing more than a few backpackers, rice paddies and water buffalo. The island is joined to the neighbouring island of Don Khon by a small bridge built by the French during the colonisation. On the first full day we were there, Charlie, Lou and I rented some bicycles to explore the islands. The bikes were the old fashioned type, very upright, bent handlebars, full mudguards, a little basket on the front, and to complete the look, a little bicycle bell. The weather was scorching hot, and very soon we were soaked in sweat, as is normal for this part of the world. We spent most of the day cycling around, over the rough farm tracks that criss-cross the island. The scenery was very picturesque, lots of little rice fields with children playing in them and water buffaloes wallowing in the mud. We crossed the bridge (after paying a small toll) to Don Khon and went to the large waterfall.
The waterfall here was very impressive, although not really a waterfall, more of a large collection of big rapids the swirl around giant boulders and come crashing down through the gaps, driven by the mighty power of the Mekong River. They were very big, and definitely a sight to behold. By this stage by cheap rent-a-bike had developed some problems, with the chain falling off pretty constantly. Normally this is an easy fix, although sometimes the chain would jam itself tight between the cassete and the wheel hub, requiring a lot of tinkering and brute force to fix it.
We continued cycling down to a small 'beach', a little bit of sand next to a small inlet off the river. There were a few warning signs up saying that it was very dangerous to swim there if you went to close to the river itself. The current is phenomenally strong, and their was a small memorial to a backpacker who died there a few years ago.
However, we were all hot and sweaty, and so went into the water anyway. We just stuck to the little inlet, and it was fine, no current at all. There were however some small fish that delighted in nibbling on parts of us. Back on our bikes and we explored the rest of the island, finding a small local village and more water buffalo. At one point we came across a very dodgy looking bridge. The structural work was made of old iron, and it looked stable enough, but it only had a few narrow planks running across the top of it to walk over, less than a foot wide. To top it all off, the bridge was high enough that a fall would not be very nice. We all got across in the end, trying different styles of getting the bikes across. We found our way back across the islands, with me stopping every few minutes to put the chain back on my bike. Luckily we had rigged up a little 'device' of ribbon and leaves to stop the chain jamming, and so fixing the chain was a simple thing that I could do in a few seconds (I got a lot of practice).
The next two days on Don Det I spent doing almost nothing. I would actually wake quite early, when the morning sun came into my bamboo hut. I would lie in bed and read my book, and then perhaps migrate outside to my hammock, where I would continue to relax and read my book, overlooking the Mekong river. Ultimately, a pretty good way to spend the day, and it beats being in an office by a long shot. At night we would meet up for dinner at one of the eateries. Afterwards we would spend most of the evening sitting on someone's deck around some candles, listening to (battery powered) music and having a few drinks. On one night we went across to the other side of the island (about a 2 minute walk) and watched the sun set across the Mekong river and the plains of southern Laos. Overall, a pretty good way to spend a few relaxing days in the middle of the Mekong river doing almost nothing except enjoying the peace of the place and the company of good friends.
We continued cycling down to a small 'beach', a little bit of sand next to a small inlet off the river. There were a few warning signs up saying that it was very dangerous to swim there if you went to close to the river itself. The current is phenomenally strong, and their was a small memorial to a backpacker who died there a few years ago.
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