Monday, April 7, 2008

Glutton for Self Punishment

Day 6 (05/04/08): Taman Negara National Park

"Millions of leeches, leeches for me
Millions of leeches, leeches for free!"

Had a reasonable sleep in, and woke to find I was the only person in the bunk. I considered having a shower, but realised if I was about to head into the jungle, whats the point? I went down to a floating restaurant and had a traditional Malay breakfast called roti canai. Ita unlevened bread with curry dipping sauce. However, I got mine with eggs and onions, so it was more a bready omellete with curry dipping sauce - brilliant!

My plan for the day was to head out into the Jungle, and spend a night in one of the hides. To do this you need to bring your own food and supplies, so I went to a little floating shop. Unfortunately, they didn't really have much in the way of tramping food, and so I had to settle on some mini cookies, a can of baked beans and obviously some water - I got 3 litres, thinking it would be plenty! On a tip from some other travellers, I got some vegetable fried rice to go and put this in my pack as well.

Took a boat across the river to the Park Headquarters to book my hide for the night. I had the option of going to close hides, only about 1-2 hours away, but decided I may as well do this properly and booked myself into Bumbun Kumbung hide, which was listed as an 11km walk, taking about 5-6 hours. I rented a foam sleeping mat, and popped back across the river to rent a powerful spotlight torch - a must for staying in the hide and left some non-essential items in a locker. At about midday I headed off into the jungle!

Like all tourist places, the provided map beared little to no resemblance to reality, however the paths were fairly easy to follow, with little yellow markers attached to trees. Most of the intersections were sign-posted, so it was fairly easy to find your way. There wasn't a lot of wildlife to see in the Jungle, but us humans make so much noise when we walk that most of the animals run away far before we get close to them. I did however often hear animals scurrying away in the bushes, and some of them sounded quite large, but never managed to see any. The trees, vines and plants were all very impressive though. As the jungle is so dense, all the trees are in an arms race to be the tallest, and as such some of the trees are staggeringly tall.

I realised I had left quite late, and so walked pretty fast to try and make up time. This was alright for the first few hours, however the second half was quite rough; muddy and lots of steep climbs. Coupled with this was the completely de-moralising distance signs. These signs just seemed to sh0w random numbers, and on several occasions, the number actually increased from the previous sign! This really messed with your mind and was quite frustrating. After walking for over an hour from a 7km to go sign, and figuring I must have made some good distance, the next sign read 10km! Completely de-moralising.

While the distance to walk wasn't a huge amount, and the climbs weren't too bad, this would have been an easy walk in New Zealand. However in the equatorial rainforest with all the associated heat and humidity, it was pretty tough. After about an hour, everything I was wearing was completely and utterly soaking wet with sweat, right down to my underwear! So when it started to rain after three hours, I didn't really care, as I was wet anyway, and rainwater is a lot nicer than the sweat/sunblock/insect repellent cocktail I was covered in.

Everyone had told me about the leeches in the park, and they are mentioned in the guidebooks as well. As it had been very dry, I was reasonably lucky and hadn't found any leeches, although I did have some blood on a sock. The leeches in Malaysia don't live in the water, they stay on the ground plants and attach themselves to you as you walk past or brush the leaves. Some even fall out of trees onto you. Towards the end though, I got closer to the river, and combined with the rain, I got hit by a few leeches, mostly around the ankles. Although I did find a small one on my stomach, which I can only assumed climbed all the way up my pants and under my shirt. You can't rip the leeches off, they are strongly attached, and pulling them off only rips them and they leave their teeth in you. Instead a quick squirt from your insect repellent and the leech detaches and you can flick her off. The leeches have an anti-coagulant in them, so the wounds don't stop bleeding, and whenever you flick a leech off, your finger gets covered in blood. The leeches were anything from 0.5cm long, to about 4cm long. They were very skinny, like long little worms, but after sucking your blood, they grew pretty fat.

Finally, after nearly five hours of trudging through the jungle in the heat I made it to the hide. My shoes were completely soaking as I had to cross a knee deep river at the end. But at least I had made it! There was only one other person there, a German guy who had already spent the last two nights in the jungle. The hide was pretty basic, a large room raised up high on stilts with a number of wooden bunks and a viewing window overlooking a water hole. It had a very basic toilet and miracle of all miracles, a rainwater shower! This shower was a lifesaver, and I could wash off all the sweat, blood, mud and dirt that the rainforest had gifted to me over the last few hours. Although my leech wounds kept bleeding, even though it was now several hours since the leech. Damn those anti-coagulants!

I settled down, ate my fried rice using a slice of cucumber as a makeshift utensil and watched the day transform to night and listen to the sounds of the night jungle. The powerful spotlight I had rented was very good, and was able to direct a beam all the way across to the watering hole. Unfortunately, we didn't see anything at all, and my bunk mate said he hadn't seen anything the previous two nights either. Oh well, the atmosphere of the jungle was cool enough. I had a terrible sleep on the hard wooden bunk with no pillow, but just lying in the jungle, in the absolute pitch dark, listening to the sounds, made the whole thing worthwhile.

Into the Jungle

Day 5 (04/04/09): Kuala Tahan, Taman Negara National Park, Malaysia

Had an early start in the town of Gemas, although there was still plenty of traffic in the early hours. Caught the Jungle Train at 7am. There are plenty of other express trains going to where I want to go, but the daytime slow Jungle Train comes highly recommended, as you slowly cruise through the rainforest jungle of Peninsular Malaysia. The train stops at all the little villages to let the locals on and off, and sometimes seemed to just stop in the middle of the jungle where people were waiting. The jungle itself is pretty interesting to watch, at least for the first hour or two, after that its all the same. It is really impressive just how thick it is, sometimes the jungle was mere metres away from the train, an impenetrable wall of green. The journey to Jerantut was about 4 hours, and after watching the jungle, I read my book and studied the Lonely Planet guidebook.

There isn't much in Jerantut, it is a fairly large town, but is mainly used by tourists as a transit hub and gateway to Taman Negara National Park. To get into the park, you need to catch a boat from Kuala Tembeling, a small jetty outpost, about 15km from Jerantut. The last boat for the day left at 2pm, so I need to be there by then. Unfortunately, none of the local buses were going before then. The local bus left Jerantut at 1.45pm, so would miss the boat by about 5 minutes. Pretty silly if you ask me.

I wandered around a lot of the centre part of town investigating ways to get to Kuala Tembeling, asking at a few backpacker places. This was pretty difficult though, because no one seemed to speak english. The only recommendation people could make to me was to take a taxi to the jetty, or a local bus directly to the park. The local bus was really cheap, however you would miss out on the boat trip up the river, which comes highly recommended. So after eating some curry for lunch, I took a 30min taxi ride for only RM20 ($8NZ) to the jetty and got a boat ticket.

The boat ride was very cool. About 20 of us (almost all tourists) got into a long wooden boat (basically a big canoe or waka), with our luggage precariously strapped to the front. For the next three hours we wound our way up the river through the jungle. Besides the jungle there wasn't much to see, although we did spot quite a few birds, and the odd cattle and water buffalo. Some of the people in the boat claimed they saw a snake in the water, but I didn't see anything.

The boat arrives in the small village of Kuala Tahan. This tiny village houses a lot of the locals who work in the park, and also has a large number of backpackers and cheap hostels. Across the river from the village, lies the entrance to the park itself, as well as a fancy resort where all the fat american tourist went to stay. Along the riverbank of the village are a number of floating restaurants offering cheap meals and selling guided walks and tours into the jungle. Each restaurant also has a small boat or two that will ferry you across the river to the park for a RM1, which takes all of about 30 seconds.

I walked up the bank and found a cheap backpackers overlooking the river. It was so laid back I just asked for a room and the guy just pointed me to one. I didn't even have to fill anything in or pay for it yet! It was a pretty basic room with 4 beds, a fan and some mosquito nets. Outside there was a pretty basic shower and toilet block, with one sink. And you had to provide your own toilet paper, but it was cheap! There were a bunch of other young backpackers around, a bunch of english, an irishman and a canadian. So I spent the early part of the evening doing the typical backpacker thing of swapping travel stories and recommendations for where to go. Everyone it seems has either come from the Perhentian islands, or is heading there next.

That evening I went on a guided night walk. It was only about an hour and half, and it was mainly for the guide to explain a bit about the forest to us and find insect. We saw quite a few large spiders, large crickets, scorpions, huge stick insects (like 20cm long stick insects!) and some really big ants. Basically, all the insects here are huge! We also managed to see a Lesser Mousedeer (which I had seen at Singapore Zoo, a very small deer), and a number of large deer in the distance at the salt lick, as well as a couple of snakes.

I got back to the village and spent the rest of the evening playing cards with the same group of people as before, with the addition of a Portugese surfer.

Sunday, April 6, 2008

Brief Status Update

Location: Kuala Tahan, Taman Negara National Park, Malaysia

Hi all. I've been in the Taman Negara National Park in Malaysia for the last three days. The internet here is pretty slow and also very expensive, so this is just a quick status update to let you know that I am still alive. I just got back from an overnight trip into the Jungle, it was a great experience and turned out to be quite a bigger adventure than originally planned. I'll leave you with a teaser trailer photo of the trip, but you will have to wait for the real story. I'm heading off to the Perhentian Islands next, to recover and relax on the beach!

Thursday, April 3, 2008

Into Malaysia

Location: Net Cafe, Gemas, Malaysia

Day 4 (03/04/08): Gemas

I am currently sitting in a Net Cafe in the small Malaysian town of Gemas. I had an early start this morning, as I had my train out of Singapore at 7:40am. I didn't get much sleep, as I stayed up quite late talking to a few other people at the hostel. One of the American guys has been travelling SE Asia for the past two years. So me and an Aussie guy, who had also just got to SE Asia, took notes while the American gave us all the insider knowledge on which places were good to go to. Pretty interesting guy, he had some crazy stories about drinking at night with the Vietnamese mafia.

In the morning I was running late after packing up all my stuff in the backpackers, and by the time I got off the MRT I was starting to get worried I would miss the train. While the train didn't actually leave anytime soon, I still needed to clear customs and immigration. So I ran through the streets of Singapore, in the early hours of the morning, with a pack on my back. I got a few odd stares from the locals who must have just thought I was a crazy white guy. I arrived at the station dripping with sweat, but luckily managed to get through Malaysian customs and immigration reasonably quickly. However I didn't have any time to stop at the money changer, so I still have a fair bit of Singapore currency on me. At least I was on the train!

The train ride itself was pretty uneventful. I had a second class ticket, but it was air-conditioned, which is all I cared about. After a short while the train stops, and everyone disembarks to go through Singapore Immigration (yes, it is an odd system). This was nice and easy, although I found out that I can't get my tax back for the camera stuff I bought. Apparently I can only get my tax back on large purchases if I leave Singapore through the Airport. Oh well, no great loss.

I spent most of the train ride reading my book, and watching the endless rainforest jungle roll by. The train stopped and just waited for several minutes a few times. I don't know why, they made an announcement in Malay and English, but the PA system and the unfamiliar English proncounciation were gibberish to me. As were the (very badly acted) Malaysian soap operas they were playing on the screen. Come to think of it I have no idea if it was a soap opera or not, but it definitely had that cheesy sense of drama and plenty of wailing woman.

Just after midday the train arrived at the small town of Gemas. There isn't really much to Gemas at all, you can walk around the whole place in about 10 minutes. The only reason I am here is to catch the jungle train through the eastern part of the Malaysian peninsula, and this is where it goes from, unfortunately it leaves early in the morning, and so I will be spending the night here. The town is so small, it doesn't even have an entry in the Lonely Planet guide. I walked around for a little while trying to find a place to stay, I could only find two places, one was a dodgy looking hostel and the other was 'Hotel Tropicanas'. As the price for the room at the hotel was cheaper than the a/c room at the dodgy hostel, I opted for the hotel. For a mere 30RM (~$12NZ), I have my own air-conditioned room with bed, ensuite bathroom and even a TV! What luxury! Although I must have looked dodgy because they asked for a 100RM deposit! The place is pretty big, with heaps of rooms, although I haven't seen any other guests.

After having a wonderfully cooling shower, and setting the a/c to maximum cool, I wandered around Gemas. There really isn't much here at all. The main highway from Kuala Lumpur to Singapore runs through it, and so there is a lot of traffic and trucks. It mainly seems to be a transit town and rest stop for travelers. I had some lunch at a random little food place - some spicy chicken and prawns with rice. After a few minutes eating the owner of the place asked if the food was too hot for me. I replied with a big smile that I like spicy food and that it was good. Him and his friends seemed a bit disappointed that the white guy could handle it.

I went back to the train station and got my ticket for the Jungle Railway tomorrow. It is not the fastest way to Jerantut (my next destination, en route to Taman Negara National Park), but it sounds very interesting and travels through the day, allowing you to view the scenery. After worrying that the hotel deposit had robbed me of too much cash to pay for the train ticket, I was pleasantly suprised when the ticket price came to 6.50RM, about $2.50NZ! Pretty good for a 3-4 hour train ride.

I will probably spend the rest of the afternoon and evening relaxing my room, might even try and learn some Malay phrases. This part of Malaysia is definitely very different to Singapore, not many people speak English, and I have seen no other tourists at all. In fact I am getting a few odd looks from the locals, maybe its because I am the only blonde in town?

Sore Feet

Location: Net Cafe, Little India, Singapore

Day 3 (2/04/08): Exploring Singapore

Owww.... sore feet. I have been walking the whole day. I had a relaxed start to the day, updating this blog with yesterday's activities. After being very touristy the last couple days at the Bird Park and Zoo, today I was just going to explore Singapore itself.

I read about the Singapore Science Museum, and decided it might be an interesting visit. It turned out to be more of a 'discovery centre' place. Lots of flashy demos and interactive 'exhibits', primarily aimed at school kids. Oh well, it was cheap and I didn't stay for long.

I caught the train back to the centre of town by the City Hall just after lunch, and proceeded to spend the rest of the afternoon and evening walking around. First off was the old historic sites of Singapore, including the famous Raffles Hotel. It just looked like an old building to me (although there were plenty of fancy cars parked outside). I walked to the Suntec centre to see the world's largest and most expensive fountain - it was turned off! I also saw Parliament House and the Supreme Court. I then proceeded to just wander around, following streets that looked interesting, and exploring the concrete jungle of downtown Singapore.

I eventually made my way into Chinatown and walked through the thronging multitudes of stalls, each one selling and touting the same touristy crap. I just spent the last few weeks of my life divulging myself of accumulated crappy possessions, and I'm not planning on getting anymore. I did however make the mistake of walking into a camera store and straight into the arms of a very good salesman. He ending up convincing me to get a UV filter and polarising filter for my camera, and he threw in a free small tripod. I was at least somewhat interested in getting these filters, so I was reasonably happy. He also made a very strong sell for a wide-angle conversion lens, but I wasn't interested in that at all. The trick with photos is that less is more, correctly framing the subject of the photo is crucial, hence a good zoom is vital. Whereas a wide angle lens just puts more clutter into your photo.

I proceeded to just wander around, including going through some giant malls, including what seemed to be an entire mall just fulled with massage and foot reflexology shops. While the idea of a foot massage was tempting, the concept of paying an old Chinese man to rub my feet was a little odd. I spent most of my time trying to find a place that sold travel guide books. I didn't have one, and would most likely need one once I left the very tourist friendly Singapore. I had been told that finding cheap travel books was easy in Singapore, however I had no luck. In all the malls I went through, there was no-one selling books at all, let alone travel books. What does that say about a society that has a million clothes shops, but no book shops?

By the evening I was back in the Chinatown market for the much talked about 'Chinatown Night Market'. It was exactly the same as the Chinatown Day Market, except darker, with more people. I did have some very good satay chicken kebabs for dinner and ate slowly as I watched all the people go by. Deciding that I wasn't going to buy any touristy trinkets, nor a tailored suit (although I was often dozens of them), I caught the ever-dependable train back to Little India.

The backpacker's staff told me that one of the malls nearby had a retail bookstore that sold travel guides, so I was off! After finding the shop (an ordeal in itself, considering the average size of a Singapore mall), I was happy to see they had the Lonely Planet guide I was after ('South East Asia on a Shoestring'). While it wasn't the dirt cheap price I was hoping it to be, it was still about half the price of the same book from any of the NZ bookstores I had looked at.

So by now my feet were thoroughly hurting after walking on them all day. My legs are fine, I am fit enough after doing lots of cycling that my legs are fine with the exercise, my feet just aren't used to all this plebian walking!

Today was my last day in Singapore. Tomorrow I catch a train early in the morning into a small Malaysian town. Once there I will figure out how to catch the jungle train to the National Park I want to visit. I don't know how it will all work out, but it should be interesting! I am actually quite looking forward to getting out of the city and its thronging crowds of people. The leeches of the Malaysian jungle should be a lot better company.

So my final thoughts on Singapore? The place just seems to be one huge never-ending shopping mall. Every building you walk into is a shopping complex of some kind. I guess its to do with the very high population density. They all seem to be themed as well, with all the massage shops taking out one floor of a mall, and all the electronics shops down in one corner, and then all the clothes shops filling in everywhere else. The MRT train system is very good though, and makes it very easy to move all around town cheaply and efficiently.

Wednesday, April 2, 2008

More Animals

Location: Net Cafe, Little India, Singapore

Day 2: Singapore Zoo and Night Safari

Another very full day. Woke up early (8:30 is early for me!) and caught the shuttle bus to the world famous Singapore Zoo. Wow. I found this place amazing, but as we have already established, I like wildlife. The zoo had an amazing collection of animals from around the world, most of them in 'open' enclosures. This was excellent for taking good photos, and so once again I took a huge amount - over 400 or so. Unfortunately some of the more interesting animals (leopard, polar bear) were behind glass viewing areas, and so taking good photos was almost impossible. One of my favourite parts of the zoo was a large walk-in aviary that housed a number of Malaysian Flying Foxes (aka bats), Ring Tailed Lemurs, Lesser Mousedeers and a variety of very colourful butterflies. They were all so tame you could really get up close to them. I watched a male and female bat fight over a piece of fruit while hanging upside down. The female ended up biting the male on his exposed 'parts'. Although on second thought, maybe it was just a bit of bat foreplay...

While the animals in the zoo were great, the biggest annoyance was by far the terrible tourist map of the zoo. The map is one of those typical maps you get at any tourist place - a highly stylised colourful depiction of a mythical place that some deranged art student hallucinated into believing it was the zoo. It was terrible. I realise that most tourists are likely to be dumb Americans, but please, I can read a real map! Can you please give me a real map whose paths and roads actually match what is real! I spent a good half hour at the end of the day walking around in giant circles trying to get to the Wild Dog enclosure. Some paths shown on the map didn't exist, and other paths existed that weren't shown on the map! Each of the zoo staff I spoke to gave me a different answer as well. In the end I came to the conclusion that there was actually no way to get to the wild dog enclosure and so I looked over the top of the ostrich area to see them. They were sleeping under the shade of a tree, and all I could see were some ears sticking up.

I had bought a double ticket for the zoo and night safari, and so I had an hour and a half between the zoo closing and the opening of the night safari. Just as I walked out the zoo and sat down at a table, the heavens opened up and I experienced my first equatorial rain storm. The rain came thick and fast, with the odd bit of thunder and lightning in there as well. I sat at my table, regretting that I didn't bring my book to read, and so wiled away the time reading the Singapore visitor booklet and figuring out activities for the next day. While waiting I met an American guy and Aussie girl and chatted to them for a while. Then at about 7:30, as on cue for the when the night safari was due to open, the rain stopped. Perfect!

The night safari is a very interesting place. It has a number of walking trails and a large tram ride that go around it. Being cheap, I didn't buy a tram ticket and just stuck to the walking paths. This means I didn't get to see some of the larger animals, which were only viewable from the tram, but in my opinion, all the smaller animals are more interesting. I saw things like Fishing Cats, Hyenas (spotted and striped), Civets, Serval and two leopards sleeping right against the glass of their viewing area. Unlike the zoo, I didn't take any photos at all. After all, it was all dark (being a night safari and all), and flash photography was strictly not allowed. I caught a show as well, where they demonstrated a few different animals doing some tricks and talked a bit about them.

I have been to a few of these shows so far (one at the bird park, and one at the zoo). They are alright, but tend to be a bit silly and clearly aimed at the children in the crowd and easily impressed vacation tourists. Although the elephant show at the zoo was quite interesting as it showed how the elephants are used in the logging industry in Asia and India. It included some quite incredible things the elephants could do.

I caught the shuttle bus back to town, and it was about midnight by the time I got to the backpackers. Crashed into bed to try and recover my poor feet who had been walking for about 14 hours. The plan for tomorrow is to go an explore Singapore itself.

Tuesday, April 1, 2008

It has begun!

Location: Net Cafe, Little India, Singapore.

So I have been a bit slack in updating this thing. However, when I was in New Zealand there wasn't that much interesting stuff to right about. So in a nutshell, my last few weeks in Christchurch were spent packing stuff up, having a big party, drinking lots of beer and saying goodbye to lots of good friends. We spent a couple days in Wellington, then continued the drive up to Auckland. In Auckland I didn't do much at all really. Enjoyed being at home again and just lying on the couch for most of the time. My last weekend in Auckland was spent with some close friends of mine. While we have seen a lot of each other individually over the last few years, our little posse has never all been together at one time for about 4 years now. We all made the effort to be in Auckland for the weekend, with people flying in from around NZ and one from Australia. Needless to say it was a great weekend.

But then the actual adventure officially started.....

Day 1 (31/03/08): Singapore

First and foremost, I have arrived safely in Singapore! I had a few hours to wait in Auckland airport, and so I watched the Hong Kong Sevens tournament, including NZ winning the final! The plane flight was alright, it was very bumpy for the first and last hour, which made eating the meals difficult. I didn't manage to get a huge amount of sleep, only napped for a few hours. The flight was over rather quickly though, which was good. So from now on, as the title of this blog says, all travel is to be done by anything other than plane!

Getting through Singapore airport was very easy. It was 6:30 in the morning, so the airport was only just starting to wake up, with a lot of cleaners around. I managed to get a Singapore map and a small amount of money out. I tried to decipher the bus system, but in the end I opted for the easy option and caught the train. The trains here are quite amazing; fast and clean. Unfortunately, as it was early in the morning, it was rush hour, with standing room only in the train full of school kids and people heading to work. I got off at the right stop and managed to find my way to the backpackers I had booked in Auckland a few days ago. Admittedly I did somewhat cheat and used my compass to help me find my way. My initial impression of Singapore was the heat. You can't not notice the wall of heat and humidity that hits you like a freight train when you step out of any air-conditioned building. It is also very neat and tidy, at least in the main areas.Once you get into the back roads and alleys, it is just like any other big city.

The backpackers is a pretty nice place, right in the middle of the Little India section of Singapore. However, as it was early in the morning, I could actually get my bed yet. So instead I decided the best way to battle jet lag and lack of sleep was to have a full on first day! I could leave my bag at the backpackers, so I put a few things in my small day bag and browsed through the selection of fliers at the backpackers. One of the main reasons I was interested in coming to Singapore is for the wild life; the internationally famous bird park, zoo and night safari. I thought about doing the zoo and night safari today but figured that going out all day and all night was probably a bit too much. Instead I decided to head off to the Jurong Bird Park. There was a shuttle company running buses direct to the bird park, so I caught it at the nearest stop (a local shopping centre).

I ended up spending the whole day at the bird park, from about 10 in the morning till when it shut at 5 in the afternoon. The size, scope and variety of the place is amazing. I have always enjoyed bird watching, but here the birds were so tame you could get really close to them to take photos. And take photos I did! 380 of them! My new camera is working really well, the manual zoom really allows you to zoom and frame your shots very nicely. Exhibits ranged from open air wetlands (for things like storks, pelicans, flamingos) to closed cages (which made taking photos difficult through the bars), to the large aviaries. These aviaries are amazing. they are incredibly big. I think the biggest one was about 2 hectares in size, with a 30m man made waterfall inside it (supposedly the largest man made waterfall in existence). The aviaries were great because you could walk around inside the habitat and watch for birds in the trees and their natural environment. As I said, I was a completely snap-happy and took heaps of photos, which I'm sure my dad will appreciate. The only down side of it all was that because the bird park is very tourist orientated, the only food place they had was a burger bar. So after traveling several thousand kilometers to far off countries and cultures, the first foreign meal I eat is a hamburger! It also cost a fair bit, which means that at the end of the day, I was 21c short of the shuttle bus fare back to the city. Luckily the driver didn't care, and since I was the only person on the shuttle, he drove me straight to my stop.

I am now back in Little India at an internet cafe. I got my bed at the backpackers and explored Little India a tiny bit. I can now walk to the local shopping center without needing the map! I went to a little food court and got my first authentic meal; a beef noodle soup with little dry bits of whole fish (I didn't look too close). It was very tasty and very cheap! I plan to have an early night tonight, to try and catch up on all the sleep I didn't get in the last few days, and to try and recover from spending the whole day walking around in the equatorial heat. Tomorrow I will go to the zoo (and probably spend the whole day there taking hundreds of photos), and then the night safari in the evening. So another full day.